Changer les hublots
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, le il y a 8 années et 3 mois.
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Désolé que ce soit en anglais, mais je crois que c’est assez clair quand même…!
I have just changed the windows in Kyra using a ‘new’ method, which I want to share with you.
As many of you know, David Merlot can supply new windows but these are slightly more rounded at the ends than the old ones and a little broader too, so the first thing is to enlarge the holes. To do this, I found the best tool was a Bosch oscillating multi-tool MXH180B with semi-circular and flat-nosed saws, which cut through the fibreglass with very little dust.
After trying everything for size, I then used not an adhesive Sikaflex type of goo but butyl tape. This for several reasons: Sikaflex gets everywhere and you need to mask the window and bulkhead and will even then probably find the stuff dripping on to your deck… Moreover, you get one chance to get it right; all it takes is one bolt not fitting and you’ve the devil’s own job getting the window out and correcting everything. Butyl tape, on the other hand, offers only advantages: no masking necessary because it’s pretty dense, it never dries so even after 30 years it forms an effective seal and… if your window should ever start to leak, you can either just squeeze in a little blob of butyl or take the window out and reseal it! And it’s cheap. But I do strongly recommend buying from this source rather than a cheaper alternative from eBay (my only connection is as satisfied customer): http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/boat_projects.
So, simply apply about three layers of butyl into the frame of the window, taking care to leave the nuts free and start tightening from inside. The windows are supplied with 20 mm bolts which are too short (at first) for some of the holes, either because the coach roof bends at that point or because the headliner is making it hard to reach the bolt. Buy some 30 and 40 mm bolts and washers (even cheap ones) and use these. Then, over a period of days or even weeks, keep gently tightening, changing to shorter bolts as you go, until they are all the stainless steel 20 mm ones. The butyl will gently fill the empty spaces in the frame and any excess will squeeze out on the outside. This can easily be cut away with a plastic blade or even pulled with your fingers. On my first tightening, about 80% of the bolts were the 20 mm ones supplied; on the following Sunday I think I could change all but one or two of the longer bolts for the 20 mm ones, after further tightening.
I shall also be using butyl to rebed all my deck hardware when I have finished painting.
I hope this helps!
Deux photos sont ‘avant’, deux autres ‘après’ (mais avant de couper la bande autour du hublot)Salut,
L’article qui présente la technique est ici: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/nfm_port_lights&page=1
On peut trouver la version française de cette technique ici: http://www.voilelec.com/pages/hublots.php
Mr Couderc de voileélec appel cela du “joint en ruban Néoprène autocollant”.
As tu utilisé ce type de joint?
Pour ma par j’ai fait ceci: http://centurion32.fr/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Changement-HUBLOTS-DIAMBA.pdf
Bienvenu à toi sur le Forum
A+ DIAMBA
Non, je ne crois pas que c’est le néoprene: aucun pompe à silicon. J’ai posé le ruban comme un Scotch tout banalement. Le ruban a la consistence de la pate à modeller ou cette pate jaune qu’on utilise pour attacher les posters au mur. On pose, on enlève la pellicule protectrice et voilà! J’ai pu ainsi éviter tes phases 7 et 8: les plus compliquées et bordéliques! Avec les avantages que je peux serrer et changer les vis pour compenser des curvatures et différences d’épaisseur et si le travail est mal-fait, le refaire simplement.
Comme tu vois, j’ai aussi refait le pont (enlevé le vieux teck), donc un problème de moins c’était bien!
Bons vents!L
Salut,
Effectivement cela pourrai être une alternative. Est ce que le produit durci avec le temps ?
A+ DIAMBA
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